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First Wave project seeks to recount tales that shaped the sport's history

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I'm not sure whether it is the Olympic fever or just the fact that we are now fully into holiday season, but the line-ups in the South West this week have definitely seemed busy.

The waves have not been perfect, with slightly cross-shore winds messing up conditions at most beaches on the north coast, but they have been fun and with the sea temperature now edging towards as warm as it is going to get this year, it has not taken much to convince surfers to get wet.

No doubt there will be plenty of tales of epic rides from this week in the pubs this weekend, but a new project which was launched last weekend will be looking for slightly older surfing stories than those.

The First Wave will be interviewing people with memories about the early days of the sport and how it has changed over the decades. Longboarder Ben Skinner launched the project, which is supported by a grant of £44,200 from the Heritage Lottery Fund, by encouraging a group of students from his old secondary school to embrace surfing and surfing's heritage.

"The history of surfing in Britain is so interesting – with just a handful of pioneering people, some of them from Jersey where I was born, inspiring the thousands of people who surf today," he said. "So much has changed, even in the 20 years that I've been surfing. I think this is a great project and I can't wait to hear the stories that emerge."

Up to 100 interviews will be collected over the next few months and will be available at museums from the middle of next year, including the National Maritime Museum Cornwall and the Museum of British Surfing in Devon.

The highlights from each of the interviews will be made into a short film and will be part of thefirstwave.co.uk from the autumn.

The First Wave was initiated by Porthtowan Surf Life Saving Club, one of the first surf clubs in Britain and home to some of Britain's earliest surfers. Chairman Adam Richards is looking forward to hearing more about the history of surfing in Cornwall but also wants stories from surf spots elsewhere in England as well as Scotland, Wales and the Channel Islands.

"The First Wave is about ensuring that the history of surfing is told by as many people as possible," he said. "We want the stories from the early days to be told by those who were there. We would like people to come forward if they have any stories to tell about surfing in all parts of Britain – particularly from the 1970s and before."

Meanwhile, back in the present day, disadvantaged children in West Cornwall will get the chance to take part in a pioneering surf club thanks to a funding boost from the West Cornwall Youth Trust.

The Wave Project, which uses free surfing courses as a tool to support young people with mental health issues, emotional difficulties or an autistic spectrum disorder, has been given a £1,000 grant which will pay for several young people from the area to take part in the programme.

As for next week, the surf forecast is looking small for the Boardmasters contest.


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